There's so much more to this corner of Romania than Dracula, from design hotels to gastronomy to a marital prison
, a modern little hotel tucked into an Art Nouveau building with Viennese secession influences specific to the early 20th century. Some of the rooms are tucked beneath sloping ceilings, with slanted windows and cozy reading nooks, and the rooftop bar has some of the best 360-degree views in town. More than once, Grigorescu pointed out that there were Orthodox, Lutheran, Unitarian churches and even a very occasional synagogue all on the same street.
The village of Biertan claims to have had just one divorce in 300 years. That’s because couples with shaky relationships were sent to work things out in the “marital prison” in the village’s fortified church. There, they spent six weeks together a small room with a small bed with one pillow, a small table, and one fork and spoon but no knife. No word on how many were stabbed with the fork. Viscri was the first place I’ve been in years that didn’t in some way remind me of another place.
In my case, it also lived up to Transylvania’s reputation for wildlife: Five bears were hanging out at various points right next to the road.
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