Cookbook author Katie Parla gives us the scoop on the 12 best dishes to eat in Rome, from carbonara to pizza rossa to crispy rice fritters.
Coda alla vaccinara is a dish of braised oxtails simmered in a celery-rich tomato sauce for hours until falling off the bone. On their own, the oxtails are soulful and satisfying, but for me, it’s all about the leftover sauce infused with marrow and studded with rogue bits of melty meat. At Cesare al Casaletto, that deeply rich, brick-hued sauce is tossed with bombolotti—“half” rigatoni, also called mezze maniche—and topped with thick shavings of Pecorino Romano.
It’s hard to imagine chicken innards being a seasonal ingredient, but Romans traditionally celebrated festivals with poultry and all of its associated parts in the summer, especially around the mid-August Assumption holiday. For decades, local cooks have been simmering livers, gizzards, and hearts with tomato sauce and aromatics and tossing them with thick fettuccine for a celebratory, hearty meal. Nowadays the dish is served year round, and my favorite version comes from Armando al Pantheon.
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