We’re living that Honolulu life with shave ice, sun, and traditional fried short ribs.
. It’s an icon, a cafeteria-like haven for the kind of homey Hawaiian food that’s becoming harder and harder to find. Thankfully, owner Craig Katsuyoshi keeps his grandmother’s tradition alive, and he makes pipikaula the way she did: dipping short ribs in soy sauce, hanging them overnight, then frying them to order so they’re tender and meaty, with a little dry-aged funk. Dunk them in tangy poi , and don’t miss the jiggly haupia .Waking up at 5 a.m.
. The grilled short ribs are charred in the right spots and come not only with the requisite scoops but also house-made kimchi and sesame-oil-slicked japchae.“People would riot if this place ever closed,” says Minaka Urquidi of why she took over, her parents’ very hyphenated restaurant, which has served sumo wrestlers and politicians since 1978. Based on the tataki alone, I get why: Buttery ahi is singed around the edges, drizzled in a garlicky soy sauce, and served with crisp fiddlehead ferns.
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