The art of compromise needn’t mean doing it on the quality of the food
Normah Abd Hamid’s tiny Queensway Market unit — tucked in an unlikely location between a sign advertising Russian films and an Uzbeki cafe — now rivals Roti King for the title of “London’s best Malaysian caff.
” The roti canai here is on a par with Roti King’s, with the fluffy interior not compromised by the caramelisation she achieves on the crust, but diners come mainly for the assam pedas, a scarlet bloodbath of whole fish, tangy with tamarind as sour as wine gums, and lifted by a prickling chilli heat.
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