Behind a quartet of game-changing young brands—Atlein, Wales Bonner, Kenneth Ize, and Eckhaus Latta—is an inspirational web of muses and collaborators stretching across the globe.
In February, Harper performed a daily ritual of movements over the course of four days for Wales Bonner’s multidisciplinary, multisensory exhibition “A Time for New Dreams” at London’s Serpentine Sackler Gallery—which, the designer says, “explored the ideas of mysticism, spirituality, and ritual across the black Atlantic.
“I’m interested in moments in history when men have been able to be more expressive, and I think dance is a space where you have the license to be more expressive,” Wales Bonner, 29, explains when we meet at her central London studio. Often the people who showcase her designs are friends—or the result of street castings—and benefit from the motivation and sense of camaraderie a movement director like Harper provides.
Wales Bonner’s most recent collection draws inspiration from a convergence of ideas—fragmented memories of time spent traveling around Cuba; the American historian Robert Farris Thompson’s exploration of Afro--Cuban spirituality and mambo aesthetics—and features 1940s silhouettes with military details, guayabera shirting, pleated cargo pants, and evening tuxedo jackets.
In just five short years, Wales Bonner has been awarded Emerging Menswear Designer at the British Fashion Awards, picked up an LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers, and been the recipient of the 2019 BFC/Designer Fashion Fund grant; in May, the Duchess of Sussex made her first public appearance after giving birth in a dress designed by Wales Bonner. Still, it’s probably more accurate to describe her as an artist—one who makes fashion the fulcrum of her work—rather than a designer.
“I’ve found my way of communicating, and that’s through clothing and creating experiences,” Wales Bonner says, citing collaboration—and the mentorship of such designers as Duro Olowu, who work outside traditional runway-show formats—as being central to her practice. “There are many ways to translate ideas and articulate feelings—through movement, through sound, through environments,” she continues. “I like to think and create holistically, and fashion is a central point for that.
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