On Kyushu island, at Japan’s southern tip, the best products and services come from deliberately unscalable businesses
The restaurant Beard is located on a side street in Obama-cho, a hot-spring resort area in Kyushu, Japan. For chef/owner Shinichiro Harakawa, 44, it’s been a long journey, both physically and psychologically, from its former location in Meguro, one of Tokyo’s hippest wards.
When diners enter the small storefront space, once a beauty parlor, Harakawa is already standing behind the counter, waiting for the eight reserved seats to fill. As the last guest files in, the room quiets and the chef—flanked by raw vegetables and vases brimming with herbs—speaks as he doles out bowls of quick-cooked broth.
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