Aromatic quince and its poaching liquid, reduced to an intensely flavorful syrup, cover simple puff pastry for an austere yet bold French country tart.
In October, I flew to Paris to visit a friend living there. We were there to do research in Normandy for her next book and spent days driving around the French countryside — eating moules frites in Étretat, cobbling together dinner from a French grocery store
During a translation error, I thought I heard her say she also makes the tart with quince, and my eyes lit up. I couldn’t speak French, and she couldn’t speak English, so my friend had to translate my excitement. But upon clarification, I was wrong; madame insisted on apples. Still, I couldn’t shake the thought of rosy pink, perfume-like quince sitting on that pastry, warm from the oven.
Unlike the apples for Madame Guillouet-Huard’s tarte au pomme, which require only a quick chop, you’ll have to poach the quince beforehand but this should be seen as a boon and not a deterrent. Poaching the quince is the best way to cook them, allowing you to steep them in a light broth made of water, wine and sugar suffused with winter spices like vanilla bean, cinnamon, star anise and fresh bay leaves.
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