Chef Magnus Nilsson left his two-Michelin-star restaurant to help lead the MAD Academy in Copenhagen. Can Scandinavia’s farm-to-table ethos bring on a global transformation?
and so on. It became a nonprofit in 2012, partnered with Yale’s Sustainable Food Program in 2016, launched a foraging app in 2017 and published its first book of essays,The academy, announced in 2019 and backed by $3.8 million from the Danish government, marks the latest step in Noma’s journey, one that has made Denmark an epicenter of the food world, with its academics, scientists, policy makers and business leaders working across food-tech startups, regenerative farms and think tanks.
Over the past decade, a number of major chefs have taken up scholarly pursuits, like Virgilio Martínez, offame, who strives to maintain his native Andean cooking culture with his Mater Iniciativa; or Spanish chef Ferran Adrià, formerly of El Bulli, whose wide-ranging food research, he hopes, will strike at the very nature of creativity itself.
Whether it can achieve its lofty goals is a big question, though MAD believes it has the necessary ingredients—starting with Nilsson’s leadership. “When chefs take a stand, Danes listen,” says Rasmus Prehn, Denmark’s minister for food, agriculture and fisheries. “People respect their craftsmanship and expertise.”
A vocabulary memorization game at MAD Academy, in which students learn environmental and sustainability terms ahead of the week’s program. In Nilsson’s Leadership & Business class, an improv theater group is brought in to enact different challenging restaurant situations, prompting students to assess how they should respond, with Nilsson offering advice from his own time behind the stove.
Tying the week’s courses together is a collaborative group exercise in which students are separated into subgroups and given a fictional restaurant to “save.” Working from a storage box filled with fictionalized reviews, financial reports, floor plans, menus and order sheets, students are allotted a couple of hours per day to apply their lessons and develop a proposal for the future of their fictional restaurant.
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