The cheesy tang of the fermented African locust bean, or “iru” in Yoruba, hits you before you see it
A decade ago you would have been hard-pressed to find, a dish named after a town in south-western Nigeria close to Lagos, the commercial capital. It consists of unpolished rice and a spicy fried red-pepper beef stew. But nowBilikisu Raji, who lives in Ibadan, another big city in the south-west, was taught to fermententerprise is run by women because, she jokes in Yoruba, the men aren’t up to it. She buys the yellow-tinged seeds in the market and boils them for 12 hours in a cauldron.
She removes the chaff to reveal black-brown beans, peels them with the balls of her feet, washes them through a sieve, then boils them again. Eventually she dry-roasts them and covers them with a raffia tray to let them ferment overnight. Finally she rubs thein salt, then rolls it up in dry leaves, ready to sell. A small wrap weighing 20 grams goes for only 50 naira . She survives on the patronage of foreign customers who buy as much as $25-worth at a time to use inon shelves across the world.
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