Like Como, Italy's Lake Garda has gorgeous shores promising summer fun. But its connection to Italy's most controversial figures has made it a complex tourist spot.
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places in Italy attract the historically inclined. But history is complicated on the shores of Lake Garda, a 143-square-mile body of water just west of Verona. In many ways, Garda—its crisp blue water reflecting the nearby Alps—feels like a curiously liminal space. Its northern shores were part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until after World War I; even today, German-language street-signs dot the villages along its northern coast. Traces of Venetian architecture abound, remnants of the Venetian Empire’s conquering of several lakeside strongholds.
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