This celebrated Sonoma Valley winemaker took on one of France's most beloved varietals.
It’s a long way from a barrel of Pinot in the garage—which is where Dan Kosta and Michael Browne got their start—to making wine from coveted fruit sources in Burgundy. But it’s not shocking, considering the trajectory of. Now in the Duckhorn Portfolio, KB is helmed by a couple of vinous visionaries, VP and general manager Neil Bernardi and winemaker Julien Howsepian.
As it turns out, though, Burgundy is also heritage for Howsepian. His grandmother grew up in a tiny village outside the town of Nuits-Saint-Georges, which he and his dad finally found, complete with a street carrying her maiden name. His father’s uncle worked in local wineries. Going back to Burgundy—making wine there—would be a full-circle proposition.The idea took form, but there seemed to be no pathway.
It’s easy to imagine creative clashes between a winemaking team working off some 700 years of tradition and a New World winemaker with all the maverick leeway of an industry only about 50 years old. But that’s not the experience Howsepian reports. Sure, there were immense logistical challenges in opening up a new route, shipping the wine—and don’t get him started on the compliance issues for wines picked, fermented, and barrel-aged in Burgundy, then shipped to California and bottled here.
In fact, the team at Kosta Browne had already studied terroir as it’s expressed in key regions in Burgundy—and how the wines compare to those from key regions in California—through a series of blind tastings. And the results were more than useful. “It was kind of shocking,” says Bernardi, “sometimes the Burgundies weren’t as different from the California Pinots as we expected.
A remarkable fact about these Burgundies—uniquely different expressions of place—is that the longest distance between their vineyard sources is about 30 kilometers . Compare that to Kosta Browne’s California Pinot Noirs—also vivid expressions of site—which come from vineyards hundreds of miles apart, from Northern California all the way to Santa Barbara County.
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