Our critic found a new favorite Houston ice cream flavor in Spring Branch
When a staffer gave me the lemon poppyseed muffin tip at, chef Christine Ha’s nearby restaurant where Cosmic’s vanilla goes on the famous Rubbish Apple Pie, I felt dubious. I tend to be a flavor purist, repelled by the chunks of cookies and cake and whatnot that go into latterday ice creams, where add-ins have become a way of life.I want purity. I want focus. I want my flavors to sing.
My first time out, I ordered one scoop of the lemon poppyseed muffin, along with a scoop of toasted coconut. That was good, too — and it surprised me, when I later consulted Cosmic’s online flavor lineup, to discover that it had been a vegan, dairy-free ice cream. I wouldn’t have guessed. Cosmic does several of those in their rotating slate, including Spring-Branch exclusives of vegan mango sorbet and a dark chocolate sorbet that seems impossibly deep and creamy, with only the tiniest trace of chalkiness on the finish. It’s pretty wild, and decidedly non-deprivational.
On my second visit — OK, I’d been obsessing about the lemon poppyseed muffin for a week — I consumed two scoops of the stuff, while sitting outside at a picnic table on the shop’s covered walkway. I could have scored a pint of it to take home, but out of curiosity I picked out a promising “speckled chocolate mint” flavor.
Again I was struck by the rich satin texture Cosmic manages to achieve with their full-fat ice creams — and by the evanescent splinters of dark chocolate that made for a refined, stracciatella effect.commissioned Houston artist Armando Castelan to paint some tongue-in-cheek flying-saucer murals that have a 21st-century Grandma Moses charm. It goes with their “Out of This World” neon sign that hangs ready for all your selfie needs.Cosmic Ice Cream Co., 8207A Long Point, 346-204-5970.
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