The globalization of the pantry found its viral apotheosis in the Bon Appétit test kitchen and Alison Roman — a predominantly white cast of characters extolling the virtues of gochujang and turmeric, among other ingredients
to augment the launch of her book, a collection of, um, Indian-ish recipes that to my mind is pleasingly inauthentic. In fighting to get their recipes featured, all of these cooks from nonwhite backgrounds are doing the hard work of representation.
The idea that we need to pay attention to where things come from is certainly true, but it’s a mantra that can take you only so far: If cultural forces likeor Roman are necessary to popularize new-to-white-people ingredients, then only part of that dynamic changes. In the attention economy, those who garner attention will always have more sway, and even in 2020, the collective unconscious wants what it wants.
Yet Nosrat’s success isn’t only about who she is inherently, but her ability to bridge worlds, to speak about and make comprehensible to the mainstream the assumed difference of minorities and the places and cultures they come from. To paraphrase postcolonial theorist Gayatri Spivak, it’s indicative of the way in which minorities must contort themselves to ever have any power: They have to manifest itThe only way that changes is representation.
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Alison Roman Shared Her Plans for the Future Following Twitter Controversy“This was a huge shake-up for me both personally and professionally,' she wrote.
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