An Alaskan Town Is Losing Ground—and a Way of Life

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An Alaskan Town Is Losing Ground—and a Way of Life
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In 2013, engineers predicted that the Alaskan island Kivalina will be fully under water by 2025. But relocation—which will take years and could cost as much as $400 million—has barely begun.

“Does anyone know how much Red Dog has put aside for reclamation at this point?” Wallis asked. Nobody responded.

“Reclamation plans are a big part of the community,” Wallis said at one point. “Some people even want certain kinds of medicines planted there, certain kinds of berries, people might want to open up a campsite—there’s a whole range of things that you can do when you close a mine.” “Have you ever been to British Columbia?” Wallis asked. “It is very, very green in British Columbia. It’s like an emerald jewel.”

The meeting concluded with a hurried raffle. The company gave away an Amazon tablet, a Bose speaker, and vouchers for stove oil and gasoline. Alice Adams won a coffee gift bag. “I don’t drink coffee,” she said, as she collected it. Then the mine representatives packed up their projector and their collapsible screen and their brochures and caught their plane out of town.

“Kivalina is a very hard place to live in, not just because of the massive snowstorms and blizzards and rain and those kinds of things but everything from our history,” Colleen Swan had said to me. “Poor living conditions are a contributing factor to juvenile delinquency. The doctrine of discovery is a major contributor to the social problems in a lot of Native communities,” she continued, using a term that refers broadly to the justifications of colonization.

Still, Millie Hawley told me that the road and the promise of relocation had improved morale. “People started relaxing when that road was built, because now they have an escape plan,” she said. “Before that, you could feel the doom and gloom in the village for many years. It was, like, hopeless. People were wild, they did anything. They would say things like ‘We’re gonna die anyway.’ ”

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