An Editor’s Favorite Burritos in Los Angeles

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An Editor’s Favorite Burritos in Los Angeles
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A great burrito shows balance and restraint. Here are our favorite burritos in Los Angeles (via eaterla)

While tacos are without a doubt LA’s most iconic food, the humble burrito is no slouch. The city’s burrito culture emerged in the early 1900s in Los Angeles’s Eastside in neighborhoods like Boyle Heights and East LA. These hefty Mexican American parcels, which borrow from traditional Mexican fare and local Chicano culture, were popularized in the midcentury and eventually took over the world thanks to fast-food giants like Taco Bell, Del Taco, and the fast-casual likes of Chipotle.

The mar y tierra incorporates the diezmillo with chile powder-dusted shrimp for a portable take on surf and turf. Cooks carefully build the burrito using locally sourced flour tortillas starting with chopped beef and six shrimp. Then come spoonfuls of stewed pinto beans, seasoned rice, pico de gallo, and chipotle mayonnaise. Loera says chipotle mayonnaise is common in Sonoran dishes, but combining steak with shrimp isn’t something you would normally see in his home state.

Every burrito begins with a grilled tortilla piled with stewed beans and shredded cheese. Requests for adding smoky poblano chiles are honored at Sonoratown, giving the burritos an earthy and mildly sweet element. Next, cooks add in a heap of chopped beef glistening from fat followed by guacamole and the shop’s signature chiltepin salsa; the salsa adds a tangy, fiery heat that seeps into every corner of the burrito. Roja and verde salsas are served on the side.

Lupe’s #2 is so popular that it creates small traffic jams along Third Street in East LA. While L Line trains rumble by, patrons wait for their numbers to be called as others sit on red picnic tables and dive into their white paper bags for one of the best bean-and-cheese burritos in LA. Lupe’s was founded in 1972 by Manuel and Adeline Portillo, and the family continues to operate the bustling operation.

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