See every look from Aspesi's fall 2022 collection:
At the sprawling Aspesi showroom overlooking Milan, where the label’s fall collection was presented, I had a nice chat with Lawrence Steele about not only the collection, but also the label’s ethos, and the importance of tailoring. Disclaimer: I’ve always been enthusiastic about Aspesi—and Steele. Here’s what the designer had to say.
“I always think about the archetypes that deserve to be in a wardrobe; Aspesi is about underlining the identity of the people wearing the clothes, as opposed to a fashion theme I’m putting on people. I just provide great pieces for them to create their own language of self. This season I started with tailoring, and the tailored blazer with proud shoulders is where the collection is grounded.
“Tailoring is becoming prominent again because, having been stuck at home for so long, our sweats have become pajamas, and I think we want to get away from those sickly pajamas. Now that we’re stepping out into the world a bit more confidently, we want something bolder and more defined, which gives us a good posture. A blazer with a proud shoulder talks of strength, even if you feel vulnerable inside.
“Tailoring and streetwear have an interesting interaction. I don’t necessarily think that a blazer isn’t streetwear. In the ’80s Madonna was wearing oversized coats, and it was totally streetwear. When I was a student at art school in Chicago, I bought a lot of ill-fitting oversized blazers in surplus stores; they fitted like T-shirts or sweats, they looked really cool because it was all about being self-expressive. I wouldn’t take the streetwear out of the blazer or out of tailoring.
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