As Myanmar spirals deeper into civil war, this tea shop along the country’s border with Thailand has become a haven for exiles.
NEAR THE THAI-MYANMAR BORDER — At a newly opened tea shop named “Freedom,” the tea is brewed strong, then stirred with evaporated and condensed milk by a revolutionary on the lam.
As Myanmar spirals deeper into civil war, a tea shop along that country’s border with Thailand has become a haven for exiles on the run. Rebel soldiers break bread with military defectors in 20-square-foot rooms rented out by resistance leaders and activists. Doctors, factory workers, farmers and orchestra players crowd into empty safe houses, sharing mats to sleep on.Like the tea shop, these places are products of Myanmar’s civil war and reflect its ongoing toll. But they’re also places where life keeps happening, where people find new ways to resist the military, to form new communities and — inevitably — to fall in love.
Initially, getting people shelter and keeping them out of jail took up most of his time, he added. But as fighting in Myanmar worsened and the prospect of returning to the country narrowed, he realized that people in the border region also needed jobs.Thet Swe Win, who also goes by Thet, pulled together $6,700 in savings and rented the two-story building on a dusty street six miles from the border.
The exiles set up scaffolding by the side of the house for an outdoor kitchen. Then, on Aug. 1, they opened for business.“A traditional tea shop,” Thet said one recent afternoon, beaming as he walked past tables packed with people. “You can eat, smoke, talk. All the things that matter to Burmese.”Waves of Myanmar people have come to Thailand before.
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