At Chanel, Virginie Viard Pays Tribute to Where It All Began

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At Chanel, Virginie Viard Pays Tribute to Where It All Began
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For Autumn/Winter 2024, Viard took us back to Chanel’s first steps in fashion: the hat shop Gabrielle Chanel opened in the French resort town of Deauville

Chanel actually has a bunch. Another is the 2.55 handbag – a relative fledgling at just 69 years old, its chain-strapped rectilinear form was proposed again and again, in leathers and tweeds for day and glittering crystal for night, endless reinterpretations of the same timeless shape. And the collection mixed together the codes of Chanel, lamés and tweeds, printed silks, peacoats and masculine dressing gown-style coats.

� Viard was savvy and sophisticated enough to embrace the allure of the past, and even to reiterate the languid shape of that 1916 blouse, sometimes as knits featuring the landscape of Deauville, sometimes elongated into billowing dresses that also nodded to her predecessor Karl Lagerfeld’s stellar Seventies years at Chloé. There was a stated cross-over of the 1920s and 1970s – in theory, the start of Chanel’s story, and the end .

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