At Krem Miskevich's Polish pop-up, eating and drinking are not separate acts.
Krem Miskevich, 31, likes to describe their dream bar. It’s the vision of a lively and expressive queer chef who loves good food, loud music and a big crowd.
Krem, a native of Warsaw, graduated from culinary school in Los Angeles before working as a cook in Copenhagen; Barcelona, Spain; and Warsaw. Their first job as a cook was at a restaurant attached to a nightclub in Warsaw. “On my breaks, I would drink vodka and dance in the club,” Krem recalls, “then come back to the kitchen to cook.”
Krem rarely, if ever, repeats pierogi fillings, which are inspired and seasonal. In October, the dumplings came filled with kabocha squash, the sweet, buttery Japanese vegetable glowing through Krem’s deliciously thin dough. In summer, Krem serves pierogi with smoked blue fish, fromage blanc, leeks and celery. In late January, the pierogi were vegan, a reflection of their desire to eat less meat, a meditation on January as a time when everybody tries to be a little more health-conscious.
In Poland, on the other hand, pierogi might be stuffed with braised duck, braised veal, lentils, buckwheat, farmer’s cheese and sugar, cabbage or sauerkraut. “I’m never going to stretch my filling with potato,” Krem says. “I want people to have four to six pierogi in one go. And I think I do that. I think it’s possible to eat my pierogi and not feel stuffed.”
On a recent January night, Krem’s pop-up was at Gravlax, a Scandinavian bar in Culver City. The menu included half of a boiled egg topped with pickled mushrooms and mayonnaise on a snow white plate alongside a shot glass full of— and an elegantly straightforward kosher dill pickle soup. The vegetable broth — made from onion, carrot, celeriac and fennel tops — was served in a bowl with diced kosher pickles, beef bacon and a crispy, crunchy Myrna potato disk.
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