The chef discusses his upcoming Hollywood spot Mother Wolf, Roman cuisine and what he really thinks of pasta in America.
as an inspiration, making pasta is about “having a firm footing in tradition but never allowing tradition to inhibit respectful progress.” So he’s putting a “gentle contemporary touch” on linguine alle vongole by using pureed green garlic instead of regular garlic to brighten up the dish. The puree, which is added at the last moment, is bright green and makes the clam pasta resplendent.
“I’ve always had the approach of treating California as if it’s its own region in Italy,” Funke says. “And I’m cooking as Italians cook, with what is directly available within arm’s distance, what is hyper-seasonal.” He’s gone so far as to bring 60 employees with him to the farmers market to connect with purveyors and has even brought seeds back from Italy to share with farmers who have the right growing conditions for the produce to thrive.
Funke knows he has strong preferences. He understands that he can be a polarizing figure. Last year, he was on“I don’t regret it, but I have to say, it was mid-pandemic, when the shit was really hitting the fan, and I don’t think I was in the greatest of head spaces,” Funke says. “Everything in life that I’ve done or said has been a learning experience, good or bad, and I essentially said what any Italian would say.
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