At Silver Lake's new Ceci's Gastronomia, Italian grandmas rule

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At Silver Lake's new Ceci's Gastronomia, Italian grandmas rule
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At Ceci's Gastronomia, it’s slow food served fast

Chef Francesco Lucatorto and his wife and business partner, Francesca Pistorio, thought they might be stuck in Italy.

“In summer they parked me there for literally over a month, and what do you do when you’re a lonely child with a grandma and a couple of friends?” Lucatorto asked. “The routine was going to get groceries, making lunch, snacks in the afternoon, then getting ready for dinner.

While there he met a friend who would later bring him to Providence, which sponsored Lucatorto on his first visa to work in the United States in 2013. He started at the restaurant with an internship, and by the time his visa was up, he was chef de partie. In the meantime, he fell in love with Los Angeles.

Then Pistorio’s visa expired, prompting a trip to Italy. But what was expected to be a relatively short stay turned out be closer to eight months due to a proclamation, signed by then-president Trump on June 22, which suspended visa holders, among other visitors and immigrants, from entering the U.S. through Dec. 31.“It really felt like we were so close, that giving up at that point was not a smart move,” Lucatorto said.

Their plan for Ceci’s Gastronomia was evolving from a tribute to their own nonne, to one that also honored their friends’ grandmothers — as well as classic, hyper-regional cooking traditions from across Italy.“The knowledge of our elders, that’s what we wanted, that’s what we needed,” Lucatorto said. “This is what we want to cook. My goal was always, ‘I want to cook like a grandma,’ because every time you go it’s a fest.

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