AZ Factory Spring 2024 Ready-to-Wear collection, runway looks, beauty, models, and reviews.
After seasons of welcoming guest talents into AZ Factory, for spring it was the turn of the actual in-house designers to take the collection to the catwalk. Norman René Devera and Peter Movrin have been quietly working behind the scenes with designers and labels like Lutz Huelle, Colville, Thebe Magugu, and Ester Manas: Today it was their moment to shine. The collection was called AZ Factory By Them.
Devera and Movrin honed their design skills at major fashion brands before being handpicked by the late Alber Elbaz in 2019 to lead the AZ Factory project—Devera as the team’s design director and Movrin as senior designer. They’re both devoted to Elbaz’s vision and to preserving its legacy while moving it forward. “For Alber, fashion was all about joy,” said Devera. “Giving women the joy of wearing a mood-lifting dress, and celebrating life. That’s how we wanted the collection to feel.
The designers imagined what the daughters of “Elbaz’s besotted clients” would wear today. They wanted the collection to appeal to different generations of women, and pictured a sort of “Saturday of a lady,” where she wakes up in the morning wearing her lover’s white cotton shirt, until she goes out at night donning a draped and ruched minidress in candy pink satin, or a slouchy négligé in a bright shade of lime green with lacy finishing.
More than 60% of the collection came from deadstock fabrics; some were from Elbaz’s first collections—a sweet sentimental touch that made the homage feel personal. For those who remember Lanvin’s fabulous shows, and the coveted dresses we all wanted to wear, it was easy to spot the references, reworked here with playfulness and vitality.
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