Balmain Pre-Fall 2020

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Balmain Pre-Fall 2020
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Olivier Rousteing worked a bright paisley pattern into an assertive Balmain lineup of sharp shouldered jackets — to be paired with thigh-high boots.

Olivier Rousteing reached into Balmain’s heady past, dragging out sketches and prints — with paisleys — which he used to add extra pizzazz to an assertive lineup of brand staples: oversize suit jackets with sharp shoulders, tailored vests carved into snappy minidresses and statement outerwear — puffer coats in black leather or sequins and velvet, tweed capes and a cropped faux-fur number with jean trim. Armor, all of it, for next week’s paparazzi-ready Insta-star.

Moving past bright tartans at the brand’s buzzing Paris headquarters — a downpour of rain and transport strikes did nothing to temper activity — Rousteing turned to the colorful, Eighties-flavored prints.“It’s a psychedelic paisley — the paisley was something Monsieur Balmain used a lot,” he said. The designer drew on sketches harking back to the Fifties, which he sought to rebuild for today’s client.

For flow, the pattern was printed on an airy-light silk gown, and all-black velvet devoré, high-collared and cinched at the waist, with extra puff on the shoulder. Sure-fire bestsellers for future Madison Avenue shoppers, where the brand is readying a new flagship, due to open in April. Cinched, tailored looks — many in signature black and white — included an electric blue jacket with an empty lapel that carried an Eighties flair.“People want to spend for a reason, and I think for years, they spent for a trend and now they want to spend for timeless pieces,” noted Rousteing.

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