Fashion has awoken, but isn’t woke enough. Here, a look at what can be done to bring real change.
There is still opportunity for the industry — which prides itself on being so in touch with the zeitgeist — to meet this extraordinary moment in American history and go beyond diversity and inclusion to truly welcoming everyone into the fold.
And all this happened alongside Pride Month celebrations — rainbow-hued collections and all — in the midst of the pandemic. There has also been real progress on the LGBTQ legal front with the recent Supreme Court’s ruling that it is illegal to discriminate against employees on the basis of their sexual orientation and gender identity.
“Racism isn’t bad people doing bad things,” Bush said. “Racism is moving through the world not realizing how the world reacts to you and believing you’re moving through the world the way you do because you worked hard individually. It’s full of bias.” Instead of stopping to pat themselves on the back and celebrate the LGBTQ community — there’s been some progress, but not enough as there are still very few LGBTQ ceo’s and business leaders in fashion — the industry found itself behind the curve on another dimension of diversity.
“Macy’s is America’s department store and we serve a very diverse set of customers and communities,” Gennette told WWD. “The diversity of our teams is certainly helpful as it allows us to have a greater understanding of what the Black experience is in our company and our country today. But it isn’t our Black colleagues’ responsibility to educate the people around them. We’ve made a call for our non-Black colleagues to self-educate and have shared resources with both our colleagues and customers.
The company had not historically been vocal on issues of race, although it was working on the matter internally. Miller, however, has not shied away from thorny issues and this year Equipment launched a gender-fluid line in collaboration with The Phluid Project. Internally, Miller said the Collected Group has sought to be more thoughtful in hiring. “Just because we have open positions doesn’t mean we have to fill them tomorrow,” he said. “If you’re looking to fill a seat in our company purely out of speed, that is absolutely the wrong way to go about this.”
Now the Black Lives Matter protests have pushed the absolute necessity of diversity to the fore, making it all the more clear that minority groups don’t just exist for one month of the year — be it Pride Month in June or Black History Month in February — but deserve and need regular attention. “Diversity is getting invited to the dance, inclusion is getting into the room with the dance, but belonging is getting asked to dance,” Sears said. “That you ultimately feel like you’re of something — that’s easier for some companies than others.”
The current crisis has highlighted the necessity of local proximity, especially when it comes to subjects of cultural sensitivity, she said. “The conversation is changing from one of inclusion and representation to one of opportunity,” said Corey Chafin, principal in Kearney’s consumer practice and lead author of the upcoming report, “Unstoppable for 50 Years: LGBTQ+ Pride Marches Forward.”
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