'In St. Louis, I’d favored smocked dresses from Saks and kilts from Harrods—hand-me-downs from our wealthy cousins. In Tehran, I discovered the drama of drapes and veils, of sequined slippers from Damascus, and skirts so long they dragged in the dust.'
I was oblivious to all of it. Not speaking a word of Farsi and near deaf to the nuances of Iranian gestures, I was dazzled instead by surfaces: the smooth cool of turquoise tiles, the blackened crust of hot naan fresh from the bakery, and, most of all, by what Iranian women wore. In St. Louis, I’d favored smocked dresses from Saks and kilts from Harrods—hand-me-downs from our wealthy cousins in Chicago.
When we left Tehran and drove through the countryside, we’d see Qashqai nomad women tending their flocks or setting up tents. They didn’t wear chadors, but rather pillbox hats and gold-threaded skirts and bright colors. Tara and I demanded that our mothers sew us princess dresses from the fabric they wore. My Christmas gift that year was a doll of a Qashqai nomad. She was hard plastic and her tinsel scratched my skin, but she, like the chador, slept in my bed with me.
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