'The needs of the people that for sure have changed. I think that now people are kind of different. And maybe I am different.'
In ordinary times, Pierpaolo Piccioli would almost certainly have made a brief sojourn to New York in June. He would have presented his resort collection for Valentino before rushing back home — to Rome and the idyllic-sounding, commuting-distance town of Nettuno, where he lives with his family — to ready his couture and men’s collections.
So the collection is planned as very simple, but it’s simple because all the complexities are solved. I have been drawing the pieces. This is a collection made with paper and pencil. No styling. Just paper, pencil and drawing, and thinking of the construction. WWD: There are several pictures of Mr. Valentino’s work, by Peter Lindbergh, Walter Chin and others. The clothes are all red. Are you paying particular attention to “Valentino red?”P.P.: I worked a lot on accessories with the atelier. Remember in the March show, I presented the rose bag, the bows, the ruffles, and I was going to continue in this direction, working on the red, rose reds. I wanted the accessories to be very iconic. I wanted the iconic signs of the house [bows, ruffles, etc.
P.P.: I am going to shoot next week and I want to do a collection without filters, like a diary between Mariacarla and me. It’s going to be a moment between the two of us because we are friends. I want to shoot the collection because I want to deliver the feeling I had when I was drawing it — no filters, so no stylists, no hair, no makeup. No photographer, of course because I am shooting.
P.P.: I missed it a lot, the physical relationship I have with everyone. But you learn to create that same kind of relationship, even not hugging people. You can hug also by saying words, talking about your life, not just talking about the job, for example. Sometimes during this period I have been talking with everyone in my company, with my seamstresses, with my team, with all of them. And you understand that it’s about human relationships. We are the company.
Pierpaolo Piccioli photographs Mariacarla Boscono wearing a look from his upcoming resort collection. Vanni Bassetti/WWDP.P.: I feel, yes, that the live show is important and it’s going to be something where people are linked together in one project. But I don’t know if it has to be a [traditional] show, a performance or something different. We are preparing something for couture which is not going to be a show but it’s going to be a live event. This is off the record, I believe.
P.P.: While thinking of the couture, I have been thinking that it was impossible for sure to do the classic runway show. I felt that I didn’t want to do any compromise with a show. I didn’t like the idea of a show with closed doors, with the girls alone in a room and something like that. So I thought that it could be interesting to do something different, completely different. [An interjection from a p.r. took Piccioli back off the record.]P.P.
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