Natural beauty brands and retailers can't seem to agree on whether the ultra-popular anti-ager is safe.
Author:Jessica L. YarbroughPublish date:Oct 22, 2019Tretinoin, retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinaldehyde — however you describe or derive it, retinoic acid is the undisputed Darling of Dermatology. The vitamin A metabolite alters genetic expression to accelerate cellular turnover and increase collagen production; it's the most effective solution we have for pimples and wrinkles alike.
"The overall product or ingredient score in Skin Deep is calculated from information drawn from the nearly 60 integrated toxicity, regulatory and study availability databases," Leiba explains. "Retinols get a high score in Skin Deep because government testing has shown that, on sun-exposed skin, these chemicals can increase the risk of skin lesions and other skin damage."
"In mouse studies, retinyl palmitate was shown to increase the production of free radicals in the skin in the presence of UV radiation," explains Dr. Rajani Katta, the author of Glow: The Dermatologist's Guide to a Whole Foods Younger Skin Diet. It's perhaps a bit counterintuitive, then, that retinyl palmitate is routinely found in sunscreen — a product designed to absorb UV radiation — like Neutrogena Sensitive Skin SPF 60.
"All retinoids can cause some 'retinoid dermatitis' during the first few weeks of use," Dr. Farris explains. "Dermatologists call this two-to-four-week process 'retinization of the skin.'" Retinization can involve dryness, redness, peeling, flaking and even increased acne Some users are fine with that, assuming all the peeling will eventually reveal bouncy, youthful skin. It will.
You're probably somewhat familiar with the skin barrier, or stratum corneum. It's home to your microbiome and acid mantle, and today's skin-care is all about building it up — from piling on the probiotic beauty products to chilling on the over-exfoliation to dousing it in fatty oils.
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