The outmoded term lurks in the margins of American dining culture and food writing. It lives in my head against my will.
Before settling at a table for my first dinner at Pijja Palace, the new sports bar in Silver Lake and the, I had already studied the menu online and pinpointed what my friend and I would be ordering.
I kicked the sentence right back where it came from, imagining it spelled out on an otherwise blank sheet of paper in the IBM electronic typewriter I remember in my parents’ circa-1980s office. I saw myself yanking out the page, crumpling it with satisfaction and tossing it over my shoulder for dramatic effect.Your support helps us deliver the news that matters most.
Roy Yamaguchi — who was raised in Japan on a U.S. military base outside of Tokyo and graduated from the Culinary Institute in 1976 — cooked in bygone Beverly Hills restaurants as L’Escoffier and L’Ermitage before relocating to Honolulu and opening his first Roy’s in 1988. He melded styles on the restaurant’s menu that drew on his connection to Hawaii via his grandfather, who had run a tavern and general store on Maui during Yamaguchi’s childhood.
But “fusion cuisine” remains a hydra of a slur. The term is usually assumed to be shorthand for “Asian fusion,” which is insultingly reductive; Asian, Asian American and Pacific Island cultures are not monoliths. It also carries a bad taste that suggests one is doing something silly or slapdash or nonsensical. No wonder chefs who are cooking to their personal narrative say in interviews, “Don’t call what I’m doing ‘fusion.
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