Carne Mare Is a Lavish Throwback to Pre-Pandemic, Pre-Plant-Based Times

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Carne Mare Is a Lavish Throwback to Pre-Pandemic, Pre-Plant-Based Times
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Carne Mare is a lavish throwback to pre-pandemic, pre-plant-based times. Read plattypants review

Surf and turf at Carne Mare at the Seaport. Photo: Melissa Hom In the ever-shifting kaleidoscope of appetites and styles that define “fashion” in the restaurant world, there are those places that tend to exude a sense of the current moment when you walk in the door and those that do not. Andrew Carmellini’s new surf-and-turf venture, Carne Mare, which opened not long ago down in the new Pier 17 development at the old Fulton Seaport, fits squarely into the latter category.

I can’t remember precisely which dishes arrived first at our walrus banquette, but to my slight surprise, most of them were constructed with precision and care, and many were delicious. I’m thinking of “chophouse snacks” like fresh little lettuce cups of crab dressed with an Italian version of Sichuan chile crisp made with Calabrian chile oil, and the grilled oysters, which are seized in a stiff Parmesan crust and presented atop a little bed of seashells.

The real reason to visit Carne Mare is for the steaks and chops, however, and if you’re still standing after the preliminary salvo of dishes, and if you have the cash, they’re impressive.

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