Longtime New York deli-goers know all about Dr. Brown's Cel-Ray soda, the herbaceous, bitter, and peppery soft drink that, yes, is still in production, with a zaftig perfume that's equal parts beguiling and refreshing.
"Huh," my California-raised girlfriend said as she put the green can down for the first time. "That's not as bad as I thought it would be."
"It was a very thick celery tonic that was difficult to get down," she added, but carbonation made it palatable. When Dr. Brown debuted the soda in 1868, he marketed it as "Celery Tonic," though the FDA eventually objected to the use of the word tonic. Today, the Dr. Brown's brand is owned by the Harold Honnickman Group, who bought it from American Beverage.
"It's interesting how the same sort of bullshit gets resold today, like Vitamin Water," says David Sax, author of, a book on food trends."All these sodas started out as the functional medicines of their day. They were sweetened to make them more palatable." Still, Cel-Ray, was very much a product of its time: a confluence of health trends, emerging industry, and Old World history. More remarkable is its persistence today.
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