Modern Synthetics is pursuing ‘microbial weaving’ with the goal of producing a new class of material — a hybrid/composite that will replace animal- and petrochemical-made sneakers with a biodegradable, yet durable, alternative
investment to scale up production. Keane, a designer at Central Saint Martins School of Art and Design in London, and synthetic biologist Reeve, then at Imperial College London, set up Modern Synthetics in 2020 to pursue ‘microbial weaving’.Their goal is to produce a new class of material, a hybrid/composite that will replace animal- and petrochemical-made sneakers with a biodegradable, yet durable, alternative.
The process begins with a two-dimensional yarn scaffold shaped by robotics, which the scientists submerge in fermentation medium containing the‘weave’ the sneaker upper by depositing the biomaterial on the scaffold. Once the sheets emerge from their microbial baths, they are shaped on shoe lasts following traditional footwear techniques. “It’s more than the sum of its parts,” Reeves says of the biocomposite.
Bacterial cellulose, Reeves explains, is already used in foods and in artificial skin and blood vessels, as well as for other industrial uses. “You don’t need particularly expensive equipment, and you can aim for more localized manufacturing, the goal of the circular bioeconomy,” says Reeve.
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