Flynn McGarry became a chef at 13. Ten years later, he's done being a prodigy. plattypants spoke with McGarry about his journey from precocious culinary whiz kid to grizzled big-city restaurateur
Photo: Jutharat Pinyodoonyachet I first met Flynn McGarry in New York seven years ago, when the 16-year-old chef from L.A. was peddling $160 tasting menus at a series of endlessly hyped pop-ups. He went on to work in some of Scandinavia’s most demanding fine-dining kitchens and returned to the city in 2018 at the age of 19 to open his own restaurant, Gem, where he served plates of deconstructed lamb and grilled sunchokes.
That was one of my first trips to New York. I can’t really remember what I cooked that evening. But then, as happens with wunderkinds, you get older and the novelty starts to die off. You stop being a wunderkind and have to start building a career. I think that’s a pretty fair assessment. That’s very much who I was back then, and to be honest, when you’ve had the kind of luck I’ve had and you open a restaurant in New York City when you’re 19, there’s going to be a lot of trial and error. When I think about that time, there was so much we were trying to figure out, and there were so many changes we needed to make.The first year at Gem was like, “Let’s be open seven days a week. Let’s be open for dinner five nights a week.
Early on, we went through a period of downsizing at Gem. We cut our staff by a lot and took tables out of the space. I realized the restaurant works better if we have five people serving 24 guests a night, instead of ten people serving 36. Then I had a moment about a year and a half into the restaurant where things were feeling very weird and I needed some sort of big change. Key players were leaving to do their own projects, and we just closed the restaurant for the entire summer.
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