Chef John Hong's Hitokuchi restaurant aims to create the perfect umami bite

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Chef John Hong's Hitokuchi restaurant aims to create the perfect umami bite
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Open since January on Convoy Street, Hitokuchi complements Hong's Michelin-recognized Hidden Fish as a more clubby sake lounge with tapas-style bites and sips

So named because it’s tucked behind a taco shop on Convoy Street, Hidden Fish Omakase Sushi Bar serves an 18-piece nigiri-only menu to just 12 guests in a precise 90 minutes for $135 — a feat of balletic sushi chef-ery that earned the restaurant aThen came COVID-19, and Hong spent his pandemic downtime musing on opening a second restaurant — one that would serve the kind of food he likes to eat in the fun and casual atmosphere he prefers.

Sea urchin with salmon and flying fish roe, sturgeon caviar and micro greens at Hitokuchi restaurant on Convoy Street. One of his favorite starters is the raw dish scallops on the half-shell, with yuzu onion, ponzu pearls, wasabi crème fraiche and micro cilantro, which he says best encapsulates his idea of the perfect umami bite.

Hong also loves the gently cooked miso-sake Chilean seabass, served with butter-dashi spinach, pickled tomatoes and soy-fish sauce. And the certified A5 Wagyu beef, a luxury dish with a $100+ price tag, was most recently served with pureed potatoes, garlic green beans and a Korean galbi sauce.

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