Reporter's notebook: When I left China in February 2020, Wuhan had just gone into lockdown over a mysterious pneumonia. It was unprecedented: 11 million people were shut in their homes. I landed in Shanghai on March 22 and I found a country stuck in time.
as something to be managed, not eradicated. China chose the radical experiment of sealing itself off from the world. As I waited to see if Chinese authorities would grant me a journalist visa, I wondered what the country would look like if and when I did return.
, alongside other foreign workers, seemed to signal a small thaw in U.S.-China relations and that the country was finally emerging from the pandemic. The Chinese officials I spoke to also hoped as much.There, I found a country stuck in time. The year had changed. The panic and heartbreak hadn’t.The return was always going to be bittersweet. Both my current teammates are still waiting for visas. The Washington Post’s Beijing office has sat empty for a year and a half.
Still, when I arrived, Shanghai was bustling. I checked into my hotel quarantine, counting down the days to when I could go out in search of the city’s specialties: piping hot soup dumplings in bamboo steamers, delicate broths as clear as glass, fresh mitten crabs. From my phone, I tracked the rising panic as people found themselves forbidden from leaving their apartments, even in medical emergencies. Officials confirmed thatin the confusion, with more reported online. Never mind mitten crabs or soup dumplings. Supply chains had collapsed in Shanghai. Across China’s most glamorous city, many people were struggling — and are still struggling today — to procure any sort of food.
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