Every time Gabriela Hearst flickers onto a Zoom screen for a collection preview, you learn much about the climate crisis, gaze at some very luxurious clothes — and hear quite a lot about buttons.
Hard to fault the American designer on her “button game” at Chloé, where for pre-fall her narrow red suede coat fastens with orbs of cheery quartz, and ceramic buttons are lined up on her lovely dresses and polos in recycled cashmere.
Soft body jewelry draped over gossamer knits, for example, give the slightest suggestion of armour, while square portholes on broderie anglaise treatments — on leather, linen or knitwear — bring to mind the crenellations of old castles. She also cited a sobering statistic from the United Nations Development Program that four out of five people displaced by climate change are women.
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