Christopher Kane Resort 2024 collection, runway looks, beauty, models, and reviews.
The ever-present bat squeak of sexiness in Christopher Kane’s work is turned up wickedly in this resort collection. Seeing its deadpan gleefulness in real life is quite a sharp-intake-of-breath situation.
It may be hard to see all of it in the blurry lookbook, but take it from an eyewitness: This collection is packed with chic-funny-simple evening ideas that look like a joy to wear. Should you detect a ’50s/’80s post-punk New Wave-ish vibe coming off it, you’re not wrong. Kane and his sister Tammy had their elliptical reasonings for ending up here. As ever, behind every brilliant Christopher Kane party-trick, there lies something darker. This time, the siblings had been watching, the documentary about Nan Goldin that weaves her groundbreaking ’70s and ’80s photography into footage of her campaign of protest against the Sackler family’s sponsorship of major museums and galleries.
It was the sight of the cocktail dresses, lingerie, and scrappy gowns worn by Goldin’s penniless junkie LGBTQ friends that resonated. “The reason they looked so amazing in their poverty is that they were wearing second-hand and discarded clothes thrown out by the wealthy—couture, designer clothes from the ’40s and ’50s. “For them, that fit with their childhood and teenage memories of seeing the deprivation of communities in the post-industrial Glaswegian conurbation they grew up amongst.
It took them back to remembering the glamour of the neatly-dressed barmaids serving in Working Men’s Clubs in the mid-to-late ’80s—another source for the sexy synthetic fitted dresses they conspired on in this collection. The subversive references they use aren’t at all visible, of course. What Kane always does is to turn the brew of associations into relevant fashion. Sometimes there’s a clue in the name, though. He’s called a gold fan-pleated evening dress “The Gold Bullion.
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