“When they say delis are dying, that’s not totally true. People still love a great deli.”
I was halfway through putting this piece together when news of Lenny Kaden’s passing arrived via the Jewish grapevine. Kaden, who died at the enviable age of 92, was the Lenny in Corky & Lenny’s. Alongside co-founder Corky Kurland, who died a little more than 10 years ago, the pair gave Northeast Ohio one its most cherished and enduring classics.
The good news is that Kurland’s son Kenny, who assumed ownership approximately 30 years ago, says the brisket biz remains brisk.Clevelanders have it pretty good when it comes to “great delis” thanks to places like Jack’s, Davis Bakery, Slyman’s and Larder. But Corky & Lenny’s is that rare breed of place that qualifies both as a community mainstay and destination restaurant that brings in fans from far and wide to experience a best-in-class legend.
If I had to pick one quintessential Corky’s dish it would be the beef and latkas, a true guilty pleasure. Picture a standard-issue mile-high corned beef sandwich, but in place of the customary rye bread, the kitchen mounds the beef between a pair of crispy potato pancakes. For the longest time, my go-to was the adorably named Three Little Tootsies, a trio of mini sandwiches starring corned beef, pastrami and chopped liver. If you’ve never tried beef tongue, this is the place to do so.
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