“Watching [Stella McCartney’s] show unfold, I had the sense that her progress on green materials has energized her designs. She’s always been way ahead, but in the past five or six years she’s had an acceleration in her development,” says CathyHoryn
Looks from McQueen and McCartney . Photo: Getty Images As everyone knows, fashion shows have become theater. Choirs, bubble artists, and a small forest of trees were among the effects this season, and, of course, there was the Balenciaga parliament. Stella McCartney, though, had a different idea. As guests filtered into her usual venue, the ornate Opera Garnier, where a heavy dance beat played, they noticed that the walls were alive with video projections of humping wild animals.
Stella McCartney. Photo: Getty Images When McCartney started her label nearly 20 years ago, she was mainly known as the designer who didn’t use fur or leather, and as a daughter of a Beatle. Today, her London-based company has taken a considerable lead in creating products from organic cotton, recycled polyester, nylon yarn made from garbage, biodegradable wood pulp , and plant-based plastics for soles.
Or maybe it’s all those wild and crazy zebras. Whatever the explanation, this collection was a good follow-up to her terrific fall show, with polished yet casual work separates, viscose jumpsuits, utility jackets and pants in white or aqua cotton, and very cute dark-rinsed denim with exaggerated top-stitching.
But I was also struck by the ancient technology that had produced the beetling for square-neck, puffed-sleeved dresses with delicate featherstitching on the bodice. Burton says she believes the mill is the last of its kind in Northern Ireland, and that it mainly produces inner linings for British suit-makers. Lee McQueen began his career as an apprentice on Savile Row. The white papery linen dress that would open Burton’s spring 2020 show was a modification of a design McQueen did in 2000.
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