Column: As an L.A. newcomer, I adored Souplantation. I'm grieving its closing

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Column: As an L.A. newcomer, I adored Souplantation. I'm grieving its closing
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Los Angeles magazine called it 'aggressively mediocre,' but its simple food and family-style seating reminded me of my Queens childhood.

, growing to 97 locations and 4,400 employees at the time of its closure this week due to the coronavirus pandemic.“Every couple of years somebody has this same great idea of a soup and salad restaurant chain, only nothing very exciting ever comes of it,” a Los Angeles Times writercalled the chain’s customers a “cult”The magazine called the food “aggressively mediocre” but marveled: “Even as L.A.

. Like many journalists, I tend to eat on the go; food is sustenance. In normal times, I grab every weekday lunch either at a tiny Los Angeles Times cafe or at the DirecTV corporate cafeteria across the street from our newsroom in El Segundo.But it wasn’t just the simple food and the fresh ingredients. Like Souplantation, I was born during the Carter administration and achieved consciousness during the Reagan years.

Souplantation was less striking for its feint at healthfulness — who knows whether those calorie counts on its website were entirely accurate — than for its egalitarianism. Its dining rooms truly were a democratic space, packed with toddlers, adolescents, harried parents, the elderly — everyone, in short, other than the 20- to 30-somethings who typically define tastes in a late-capitalist society.You grabbed a plastic tray and immediately got in the salad line.

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