A visit to a farmers market and then The Times’ test kitchen to see what David Tanis creates in L.A.
“It’s nice to make salads out of things you normally wouldn’t, like this one that’s mostly radishes. If I was going to make this without greens, I’d just spoon over some crème fraîche. Thinly sliced black radishes with crème fraîche and salt are so tasty. Think of a salad that way: some kind of seasoned and dressed plant matter. This is great on its own or served with a piece of roast chicken.
If using a grill, brush the oyster mushroom slices with olive oil. If using a skillet, heat a thin film of olive oil in the bottom of a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the slices to the skillet , season with salt and pepper and cook, flipping halfway, until deep golden brown all over, 2 to 4 minutes. Transfer the slices to a serving plate and remove the skillet from the heat.
While the mushrooms cook, make the persillade. Rip off 2 to 3 sprigs’ worth of cilantro leaves and soft stems from a bunch and place on a cutting board. Place 2 peeled garlic cloves on the cilantro and mince the two together. Return the skillet to medium heat and add a couple more tablespoons of olive oil. Add 1 cup fresh wood ear mushrooms, season with salt and sprinkle over the persillade. Cook, tossing often, just until the mushrooms are hot and the garlic is no longer raw, 30 to 60 seconds. Scatter the wood ear mushrooms over the oyster mushroom slices, then top with more fresh cilantro leaves to serve.
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