Designing 'Women' lets Jacqueline Durran get a little freer with Victorian costumes

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Designing 'Women' lets Jacqueline Durran get a little freer with Victorian costumes
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The looks for 'Little Women' are period-accurate, but Jacqueline Durran lets the March girls break free from traditional Victorian stiffness

Oscar-winning costume designer Jacqueline Durran says it was a balancing act dressing the much-loved March sisters in director Greta Gerwig’s new adaptation of Louisa May Alcott’s novel “Little Women.”

“For me, it was all about capturing that free spirit [of the March women] and working out how much you could let go and how much to keep back — all within the mid-19th century period framework,” says Durran, who created about 75 costumes for the four girls and their mother, Marmee March . Yes, though it’s not wholly incorrect to have checks, stripes and paisley elements in that period; it’s just they’re being used in a different way than traditionally. Victorians used a lot of checks and paisleys. The way we use them [in the film] is slightly off-period; it’s “not quite,” which can make it seem a bit more modern. I think the closest thing I’ve done similarly before was “Pride & Prejudice.

Then we’re in Boston at the highest of American society, and everyone’s primping in pastels, and it’s a kind of magical world of pretty young girls. And then when Amy goes to Europe, there’s another whole level of ball chic, so chic it doesn’t even care about being pretty anymore.

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