“We’ve been very quiet since COVID[-19] because of all the things that happened. When COVID came I thought to myself ‘this is a moment to reset the clock,'” said Diane von Furstenberg in an interview at her office in Manhattan’s Meatpacking District.
She recalled when her children were growing up she would always say, “I have three children — a daughter, a son and a brand. I don’t know that they liked it. A few years ago Alex [her son] was very passionate in a meeting, and said, ‘This brand is my brother.'”
Throughout the company’s 50-year history, DVF has only used only two factories. Von Furstenberg recalled that she started as an intern at Manufactura Ferretti in Como, Italy, and learned everything about printing from the owner, Angelo Ferretti. Next door, there was a factory that made stockings. With the advent of pantyhose, that factory went bankrupt and was sold to Ferretti.
During COVID-19, she said she had responsibility to that factory and owed them money. “By then, my biggest client was my Chinese distributor,” said von Furstenberg. Von Furstenberg said she needed someone like Hirata, who would speak Chinese to the factory staff and reassure them, and speak to Chen and reassure her.
“We have an incredible library of prints, a system. Very often we went off the system. When you hire a new CEO or a new designer, they want to reinvent the wheel. But there is a formula, a very interesting formula that we should go back to,” she said. “It just shows how timeless our pieces are. No matter if it’s a 30-year-old dress, a two-year-old dress, a brand new dress, DVF will be able to stay in your closet and be worn again and again,” added Talita von Furstenberg. “It’s always timeless, effortless and sexy.”
Lor came to New York, and spent 10 days in the archives in Connecticut. “I was so impressed with him that I introduced him to Rizzoli and he’s also editing a book that will become ‘Woman Before Fashion,'” said von Furstenberg. “Instead of being from me, I find it much more legitimate if it comes from somebody else, especially someone of a young generation.” The book will be published in October.
“Even though we’re a 50-year-old brand, we are completely virgin of all categories,” said von Furstenberg. Right now, all they do is ready-to-wear. The DVF business is still owned by the von Furstenberg-Diller family. “Right now we own it, and we had to solidify what it stood for so it could be rebirthed again,” said von Furstenberg.
The apparel design and prints originate in New York office, and the New York design team and Beijing design and production team speak daily and partner to produce four collections a year. Offerings were slimmed down from about 400 styles a season to 200 a season.
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