Turns out dining like it's 1920 is a very 2020 thing to do: Top chefs are turning their attention to old diners
America’s original diners served unpretentious food made from scratch with ingredients sourced nearby. That model is looking pretty fresh againWHEN KRISTOPHER SCHRAM bought the West Taghkanic Diner, a chrome-and-vinyl relic from 1953, in Ancram, N.Y., he had recently left a high-profile position in Copenhagen.
As head chef at Baest he oversaw a staff of 25 cooks who butchered whole animals and made cheese using milk from the restaurant’s own cows. Now Mr. Schram gets by with a crew of two or three, but he hasn’t given up making nearly everything from scratch. On a recent Friday morning, one cook whipped up mayonnaise, while another smushed focaccia dough into a sheet tray for baking.
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