What is it like to criss-cross the U.S. on dirt roads?
At the heart of the Ozark National Forest, near the Wolf Pen and Estep creeks, is a town called Oark, with a population of just more than three hundred. Oark’s general store, which opened in 1890, is situated where five county roads meet. You can buy a piece of buttermilk pie or a pack of cigarettes to smoke on the large front porch next to the ice machine; the cell service is unreliable, but guns are welcome, as long as they stay holstered.
The same year that Heat-Moon published his book, Correro was running a pharmacy business in Greenville, Mississippi, and raising a family with his wife. He was settled but felt the allure of the road. “I couldn’t neglect my family or my job,” he said. “I just thought, There has to be more than the dollar.” He bought a motorcycle and started riding it on the weekends.
Trim, of medium height, Correro wears a uniform of a white T-shirt, bluejeans, and reading glasses hanging from a cord around his neck. He looks a decade younger than he is; except for some stiffness in his hips, from decades of riding, he is agile and energetic. He sold the pharmacy in 1990. Now he often puts in full days driving his trail, fulfilling map orders from motel rooms at night. He includes his personal phone number with every order.
In the late nineties, as a Father’s Day gift, Correro’s son gave him a G.P.S. device. Today, using an outdated program called MapSource, he draws his intended route directly onto a digital map. He then transfers the file to the G.P.S., a Garmin zūmo 665. As Correro drives the hypothetical trail, he uses the G.P.S. to drop “breadcrumbs” at each new turn. Riders now have a choice: they can buy Correro’s paper maps and road charts or his G.P.S. files, following the digital breadcrumbs he has left.
On our first day out, I rarely exceeded twenty-five miles an hour. Correro told me that I was a fast driver. Riding a motorcycle, it would be hard to push fifty on the TransAmerica Trail without risking injury. Twenty-five feels slow if you’re used to interstate travel. Correo once heard a rumor that someone had set a record by riding the entire trail in fourteen days; he wasn’t impressed. “They just can’t enjoy what the trail is designed to do,” he said.
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