Vincent Chaperon on the versatility of this style of Champagne.
If you purchase an independently reviewed product or service through a link on our website, Robb Report may receive an affiliate commission.spent his childhood dreaming of the sea. The grandson of French marines on both sides of his family, he grew up near the ocean and loved sailing—which is perhaps why he figured his stint at Moët & Chandon, in landlockeda role he assumed in 2019 after a 13-year apprenticeship under his predecessor, Richard Geoffroy.
Taste Test: This Distillery Received the Wrong Barley and Then Turned It Into One of Its Best Whiskeys Named for the Benedictine monk considered the spiritual father of Champagne, Dom Pérignon is produced only in the finest years and only as a single vintage. In discussing the recently released, Chaperon compares the Champagne-making process grandly to architecture: “We are creating a space starting from an emotion, a volume, a texture, a light, an atmosphere, a feeling, a personality.
Chaperon, 49, describes each vintage as a “dialogue between the character of the year and the vision of Dom Pérignon,” though he, like others in the region, notes that climate change is making each year’s character increasingly volatile. He recalls the unusually hot and dry 2003 vintage, when grapes were harvested in August for the first time in memory; heat waves and drought have since made August grape collection the standard, potentially upping the sugar levels and lowering the acid.
The 2009 Rosé Vintage releases a discreet column of bubbles that opens a bouquet of raspberry, dried fig, and rose petal, with a soft hint of baking spice. Flavors of Mission fig, cherry, rising brioche, and fennel pollen roll over the palate, all bathed in subtle acidity. Chaperon attributes the wine’s elegance and depth to its 14 years of aging, which he says resulted in something “captivating and intensely alive.
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