At Akara House, Funso Akinya relies on a tight larder of ingredients, rearranging the same few building blocks to make Nigerian classics sing.
What exactly is Funso Akinya doing back there, in the kitchen at Akara House , his tiny takeout counter in Crown Heights? The first time I tried his food, I looked up from my cardboard container in stunned silence. None of the short, straightforward menu descriptions, hand-painted on the wall—“bean based burger,” “yam porridge ”—came close to conveying the culinary wizardry at play, though a passerby nailed it: “They got the good food in there!” he shouted through the open door.
Plantains also figure in the yam porridge, adding sweetness to a stick-to-your-ribs mash of honey beans with tender chunks of puna yam—a mild-flavored tuber also known as Ghanaian or Nigerian yam—plus more garlic, ginger, and jalapeño. Part of Akinya’s gift is his ability to rely on a tight larder of ingredients, rearranging the same few building blocks to make simple starches sing. Another porridge, called, which has the texture of whipped potatoes, is made from fermented corn.
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