Pop-ups and residencies aimed at supporting chefs of marginalized backgrounds offer new paths to success. They also risk treating representation as an endpoint.
, a cocktail bar in Baltimore. They spearheaded the restaurant’s new chef residency program, which they hope becomes more than another point on someone’s resume.
Each quarter, Church brings in a new chef to revamp the menu, working with a set framework. “We came up with cheeky names for things like an Interesting Salad and Crispy Potato, and each resident chef interprets that and they’re given two wild card items to round things out,” says Gregoire, who specifically chooses chefs who, while they may or may not have gone to culinary school, have nontraditional backgrounds and made something of their own way in the food industry.
These chefs work with the culinary staff, training them on the menu. They’re paid both as a consultant prior to their menu launching, and with a percentage of gross sales for the time their menu runs. Gregoire, who had worked as a restaurant consultant for many years, hopes this process arms chefs with the skills to run a successful business. “So many chefs have not had someone sit down and be like, ‘But how are you training your staff?’they say.
Church opened in September, launching the residency program with chef Dwight Campbell, co-founder of vegan ice cream brand. Gregoire says customers have been engaging with the concept, mentioning it on social media. “Having that community buy-in really helps to make it worth it, and helps to perpetuate this idea that we can have something different,” they say. And ultimately, what all these pop-ups and residencies are attempting to do is make the diner an active participant in their own meal.
None of these programs will single-handedly solve the issues of inequality and hierarchy in the restaurant industry. But what they can be is a stepping stone. “There’s people out there that are in this bizarre culture war — having a guest chef who’s Chinese American doing a menu paired with beautiful wines in a beautiful room should just be a benign, lovely thing,” says Mistry. “And yet there’s people out there that actually would be angry about that.
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