Buttery, yeast-risen cake is the ideal showcase for ripe wedges of summer stone fruit.
While summer in the “before times” may have meant swimsuits and beach days to most people, to me it only ever meant it was time to eat all the stone fruit NOW! As anyone who counts fruit as their true love can attest, now is the season of lustful infatuation. Berries are great, but have you ever bitten into a peak-season peach and had its juice run down your arm? I buy the callipygous beauties — plums, apricots and dozens of hybrids — by the case to eat raw.
I first made the cake from a recipe in one of my favorite cookbooks, “Simple Desserts” by Ken Haedrich. In the book, he calls it a “Butter Yeast Cake” — essentially a yeast-risen bread dough mixed with enough butter to “shorten” it into the texture of a tender, traditionally egg- or chemically-leavened cake — and uses it almost like a syrup-less baba au rhum, served plain with whipped cream and fruit on the side.
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