From Martine Rose’s debut as guest designer at Pitti Uomo to changes under Raf Simons at Prada; here’s a guide to the Autumn/Winter 2023 menswear season
Elsewhere, Saint Laurent’s head honcho Anthony Vaccarello seems intent on transposing Yves Saint Laurent’s revered womenswear – ‘Le Smoking’ suit, in particular – onto men for a softened take on tailoring. A/W23 should follow suit. Over at, the Peekaboo bag has been scaled up as the man-bag mainstay, while the Baguette gets dinkier by the season, ideal for guys indulging their repressed Y2K ‘it girl’.
What’s next remains to be seen, but whatever follows guys in Mary Janes and crop-top tuxedos is sure to land.It’s hard to imagine a designer as rooted in London subculture as Martine Rose, and it’s precisely this that makes her first foray beyond the capital all the more momentous. Showing as Pitti Uomo’s guest designer, she follows in the footsteps of her peer Grace Wales Bonner, promising overdue kudos on the continent.
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