In the mood for a vacation that combines hiking, good meals and fine hotels? Look to Germany’s Black Forest, where young chefs, hoteliers and artists are reviving the region.
version of Germany still exists, more than anywhere else, in the Black Forest. Villages of half-timbered houses dot deep valleys in the shadow of mountainsides thick with spruce and fir trees. Hilltop castles loom above sprawling vineyards and orchards. The traditional finery is ornate and the souvenir cuckoo clocks even more so. Then there’s the namesake cake, tempting enough to lure even the most resolute weight-watcher into a witch’s cottage. That’s the Black Forest most visitors come for.
The Black Forest region offers some 14,000 miles of hiking trails. Above-average ones are designated by the German Hiking Institute as premium hiking trails, and analyzed kilometer by kilometer. Others are designated Black Forest Gourmet Trails, which have at least one quality-checked restaurant or other stop on the path where you’ll be able to refuel.
They hope that the Mühle Schluchsee, which opened just before the pandemic, will serve as a beacon for what’s possible. Occupying a hipped-roof, Black Forest-style farmhouse built in 1603 , it strikes a balance between the traditional and contemporary now. The cozy lounge, where guests laze on plush powder-blue sofas for welcome drinks and afternoon coffee and cake, still features the low-timbered ceilings from when the ground floor housed livestock.
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